"There is barely a morsel of offal not included. If it's a constructive point of view then I will accept what he writes but if it becomes personal I'll close my doors to that. He claimed that White was behind the theft and was trying to sabotage his business. Want to bookmark your favourite articles and stories to read or reference later? Adrian Anthony Gill, journalist, born 28 June 1954; died 10 December 2016. [42] The couple had two children. [9] At the age of 30, having abandoned his ambitions in art, he spent several years working in restaurants and teaching cookery.[10]. The weather's foul, the food's medieval, it's covered in suicidal motorists and folk who believe in fairies. Check ou. Very sombre mood in the office," he added. He described the killing in the Sunday Times in 2009. My staff were deeply upset by the unprofessional behaviour from a respected food critic. His first piece for Tatler, in 1991, was an account of being in a detox clinic, written under the pseudonym Blair Baillie. "Because I knew that would f**k him.". "I had to go to get stitches. Gills professional life was seemingly devoted to courting controversy as restaurant critic, travel writer and TV reviewer. [14] He wrote several books on individual restaurants and their cuisine Ivy (1997), Le Caprice (1999), Breakfast at the Wolseley (2008) and Brasserie Zedel (2016). A." Among his pleasures away from writing was cooking, which he said was therapeutic, or, as he put it, four and 20 black thoughts baked in a pie. Only just told us he had it. I tried lots of things portrait painting, murals, illustration and I could just about make a living but it really wasnt going anywhere.. He married current Home Secretary Amber Rudd, who was then a venture capitalist, in 1991. The final column by Gill, about coming to terms with his diagnosis, will be featured in tomorrow's Sunday Times. Many, though, admired his writing, among them his fellow journalist Lynn Barber, who wrote: Gill is a wit and a charmer. Writers, broadcasters and journalists have paid tribute to the published author, who was known for dictating his copy over the telephone due to his dyslexia. History will remember 24th June, 2022, as the day the U.S. Supreme Court d, In 2014, Topacio Reynoso Pacheco, 16, opposed a silver mine planned to operate near her hometown about 50 miles southeast of Guatemalas capital in Mataq, Sweden used to evoke the usual stereotypes: blonde-haired blue-eyed people traipsing through green flowery fields, assemble-by-numbers furniture with simpl, Its Platinum Jubilee weekend in the UK, marking the 70th anniversary of Queen Elizabeth IIs ascension to the throne. Two years later he was poached by the Sunday Times as the papers TV and restaurant critic and as a feature writer. Referring to British journalist Giles Coren and AA Gill, the former food critic for The Times who passed away in 2016, Ramsay went on to explain that at least some of the vitriol in the review may have been a result of Ramsay's own actions, as the chef has made the news on several occasions for ejecting critics from his restaurants. He was sent to a progressive boarding school, St Christophers in Letchworth. pic.twitter.com/Hw1nTm9O84, Sad aa gill died. Please enter a valid email and try again. The most depressing and uncongenial meal, in an anaemic, echoey building, made even more wrist-slashingly ghastly by the sad and silent ghosts of a century of culture and lan and bibulous brilliance. He defended TV, and not just because writing about it helped pay his mortgage: The only people who ever thought television rotted the brain and made kids dumb were those with a vested interest in other ways of learning, or those who were intellectually insecure, usually about books. The journalistic exquisite and the acerbic chef, who once was an Old Firm footballer, were reunited at the 15th birthday bash of the magazine GQ. Until the end AA Gill remained a prolific journalist. According to Ramsay, the beef between himself and Gill started when he heard that Gill had made insulting comments about his staff and personal life and he unsurprisingly had him thrown the hell out of his restaurant in the middle of his meal. He added: "He was the heart and soul of the paper. Despite Ramsay's dominance, this is my first time meeting the chef or eating his food; quite an achievement if you contemplate his two-decade long ubiquity on the global food scene, and one that he might find rather insulting. Ripert believes that a "smart chef" should lead their kitchen team "by sharing, teaching, [and] inspiring with respect" instead of "insulting, abusing, [and] humiliating their team," as he claims Ramsay does. He's starred on several TV shows, and has restaurants all over the globe. Samuelsson said that the tirade went on for several minutes, and ended with Ramsay saying "I'm going to make sure you have a f***ing miserable time here. Some of London's best chefs trained under him. He was unrepentant: I know perfectly well there is absolutely no excuse for this, he wrote. Baboon isnt good to eat, unless youre a leopard. But the ladies will know what I mean when I say only from the neck up. Ramsay continued: "[Anthony] is a squashed Bee Gee, who cant cook to save his life. "I turn left with Tana and they turn right and I say to the chief stewardess, 'Make sure those little f****** don't come anywhere near us, I want to sleep on this plane'. (modern). In a statement sent to staff on Saturday, Mr Ivens said: "It is with profound sadness that I must tell you that our much-loved colleague Adrian Gill died this morning. [10] In a 2014 article in The Times, Gill said that he had "continued to smoke about 60 a day" until the age of 48. The multimillionaire takes it a little bit too far, though. Submitted by Gre, Queen Elizabeth II, Queen of the United Kingdom and 14 other sovereign countries and head of the Commonwealth, has died aged 96, Buckingham Palace has anno, In Pakistan, unprecedented rains caused by climate change have left a third of the country underwater, killing 1,100 people and leaving 10 mi, Today marks six months since Russia invaded Ukraine. Dont make me laugh. and okra! Perhaps the best example of Gills biting criticism came back in the late 90s. That's just the role he's got. They cant all have brain tumors. He said: "I go running because I dont want to be fat like Anthony Worrall Thompson or Brian Turner. Im going to disappear for a bit. Instead, he blamed the television industry for the pressure it puts on its celeb chefs to "create excitement. Read about our approach to external linking. But now, at 49, my skin is a lot thicker. White claimed that Ramsay betrayed him in several ways, including turning up at his wedding without permission with a film crew and posting footage of it. It generated an operating profit of 0.7m just . "A real, well-run professional kitchen has dignity and order." ", It seems like he's calling out Ramsay in the piece, especially when he refers to reality TV stars on cooking shows who "insult and humiliate their crew, cursing and swearing, with every other word a bleeped expletive." It's a question I ask myself as, pessimistically, I sit down to lunch alongside coach-loads of Chinese tourists at Gordon Ramsay's new brasserie in Bordeaux named - what else? [11] He wrote a series of columns for GQ, on fatherhood and other subjects. Very sombre mood in the office," he added. Men who choose their own ties and are trusted with scissors and corporations, who have sophisticated on their Facebook pages. Lionel Barber is editor of the Financial Times, On board the worlds last surviving turntable ferry. Why do they continue to come here? ", While the two still aren't exactly friends, Batali has hypothesized that Ramsay is "just playing a role," telling Eric Ripert on his show, On the Table "He's a TV guy. In 1998, he described the Welsh as "dark, ugly little trolls" - a comment that was referred to the Commission for Racial Equality - while he once described Rhyl as "a town only a man driving a crane with a demolition ball would visit with a smile". He began his writing career in the 1980s with art reviews for magazines, before writing for Tatler and then the Sunday Times. Taking a break from the marathon training - he ran last years event in under four hours - he revealed that his exercise is driven by a fear that he may become as rotund as his contemporaries. "He didn't have the time to manage it. [38] Beard in response accused him of being "frightened of smart women" and suggested "maybe it's precisely because he did not go to university that he never quite learned the rigour of intellectual argument and he thinks that he can pass off insults as wit. Here Are the 2023 James Beard Awards Restaurant, Chef, and Media Finalists. He was also once thrown out of one of Gordon Ramsay's restaurants, along with his dining partner, actress Joan Collins. He was once thrown out of a restaurant by Gordon Ramsay over a review, though Ramsay acknowledge in a response written for The Independent that Gill was a very witty writer. In addition to writing about food, Gill was a voice on a variety of cultural topics. For a 2011 Vanity Fair critique, Gill visited this Paris bistro, which he characterized as a favorite among high-profile anglophone visitors to the city. ", Michael Winner: "A food critic? Despite the lower decibels, however, he still manages to sound like an army drill sergeant, though he's hardly intimidating. They had two children together - Flora and Alistair - but later divorced. It's the battle of the significantly altered celebrity / TV chefs this week, as Fay Maschler heads on down to Chelsea to check in on the three-Michelin-starred Restaurant Gordon Ramsay. Its a confidence trick that can make oreille de cochon out of a sows earreputation and expectation are the MSG of fine dining. A soft-nosed .357 blew his lungs out". Gill was not impressed. This restaurant was deemed the spiritual home of Irish cooking by the Irish Times, a characterization that didnt resonate for Gill. The critic gave Aubergine a negative review in the Sunday Times. Gill was born in Edinburgh to an English father, Michael Gill, a television producer and director, and a Scottish mother, Yvonne Gilan, an actress. AA Gill Dies Weeks After Revealing He Had Cancer in Restaurant Review [The Guardian], AA Gill: An Announcement By the Editor of The Sunday Times [Sunday Times], Prolific Food Critic AA Gill Announces Cancer Diagnosis in Latest Review [E], 'My opinion is worth more than others' [The Guardian], The freshest news from the food world every day. I was a militant teenager and he felt infuriated and threatened and I felt put upon and hard done by, Gill recalled. [33][36] The PCC considered publication of Gill's piece to be "an editorial lapse" for which "the newspaper should have apologised at the first possible opportunity". Just a few weeks ago, prominent British food critic AA Gill dropped the news that he had been diagnosed with cancer perhaps fittingly, in a review. Original reporting and incisive analysis, direct from the Guardian every morning, 2023 Guardian News & Media Limited or its affiliated companies. [43], Gill's younger brother Nick, a Michelin-starred chef, disappeared in 1998, telling Gill: "I'm going away now . He called what he did "first person journalism", and whatever he wrote he dominated the story with his curiosity and personality. Times Literary Supplement editor Stig Abell tweeted that Gill had been "the first journalist I learned to recognise purely from his style". He's like playing the bad guy in Macbeth. [22] The CRE declined to prosecute, saying that Gill "had not meant to stir up racial hatred. He slumped and slid sideways. His fight with his father-in-law, Chris Hutcheson, got so out of control that it ended with Hutcheson ultimatelygoing to jail. He hasn't been here since August.". sad and expensive. "They have made up like mature adults. . Indeed, his long-running animus in restaurant reviews against vegetarians (people who get pleasure from not eating things) may well be explained by this childhood trauma. When the family goes on trips, he doesn't even let his kids sit with him and his wife, Tara. [24], Gill made further comments regarding the Isle of Man in his Sunday Times column on 23 May 2010,[25] when he described its citizens as falling into two types: "hopeless, inbred mouth-breathers known as Bennies" and "retired, small arms dealers and accountants who deal in rainforest futures". Good luck, you f***ing black bastard.". So, so completely defunctly dead." Jacques Pepin is another chef who thinks that Gordon Ramsay's on-screen persona leaves a lot to be desired. Gourmet Traveller interview with AA Gill at Sean's Panaroma in Bondi while in Sydney for the Sydney Writers' Festival. ", "I was given a second chance": Listen to AA Gill speaking on BBC Radio 4's Desert Island Discs in 2006. His break in journalism came in 1991 when Jane Procter, then editor of Tatler, asked him to write about his detox experiences. I guess he was offended at being left out. Ultimately what is the real destroying thing is the depression, the self-loathing, and the fear a lot of being drunk is to do with being frightened all the time.. The fight began in the 2000s when Oliver publicly bashed Ramsay for mocking the appearance of Tracy Grimshaw, an Australian TV personality. When you're not busy you work to get busy and when you are busy you look to stay there." ", Teaching your kids the value of a dollar is one thing, but going on record saying you don't want your kids anywhere near you on a plane is a good way of stirring up resentment. Writer AA Gill has 'full English' of cancer, AI chatbots 'may soon be more intelligent than us', Russia troop deaths hit 20,000 in five months - US, Palestinian hunger striker dies in Israel prison, The 17 most eye-catching looks at the Met Gala, The burden of being cricket legend Tendulkar's son, 'My wife and six children joined Kenya starvation cult', On board the worlds last surviving turntable ferry. Please enter a valid email and try again. He eventually turned the trademark back over to Bloomfield, but not until few months had passed. There is no mitigation. In October 2009, he described how he had shot a baboon while in Tanzania, prompting outrage from animal rights groups. A quotable character in his own right, Gill was a recovering alcoholic whose breakout story was a piece in the Tatler in which he wrote about being in a detox clinic. So why does he still bother cooking - or at least endorsing new food - for us mortals when surely he could be making beans on toast for David and Victoria Beckham for the rest of his days? The columnist told the newspaper last month that he had been diagnosed with the "full English" of cancers. Sat 10 Dec 2016 at 09:46. The BBC is not responsible for the content of external sites. Chef Jamie Oliver falls into the second category, and has had an ongoing feud with Ramsay for years. [3][4] The family moved back to the south of England when he was one year old. He's an international sensation whose cooking chops (he has multiple Michelin stars under his belt) have made him a household name. Video, On board the worlds last surviving turntable ferry, Serena Williams announces pregnancy at Met Gala, Met Gala 2023: Stars celebrate Karl Lagerfeld, Shooting suspect was deported four times - US media, Palestinian hunger striker dies in Israel prison, Yellen warns US could run out of cash in a month. In the song, Manics' lyricist Nicky Wire reflects Gill's comments on the Welsh back at him, referring to him as a "Spiteful twisted unforgiven, sad and inverted and stunted, retarded ugly balding old man". Starcrossed was given the Literary Review's Bad Sex in Fiction Award. Fans Were In Mourning. Very sad to hear the news about the passing of the brilliant AA Gill. ", Legendary chef Raymond Blanc: "A little French tw*t.", Nick Nairn: "He should spend more time in the toilet and let it come out of his a******e rather than out of his mouth. This is my city, you hear? It was a Damascene moment, he said, perhaps showing that his fathers careers advice was right. In 1998, he was reported to the Commission for Racial Equality for describing the Welsh as loquacious, dissemblers, immoral liars, stunted, bigoted, dark, ugly, pugnacious little trolls in the Sunday Times. This Is Why Glasgow Is Being Called The UKs First F Queen Elizabeth II Has Died At The Age Of 96, A Third Of Pakistan Is Under Water Heres How To Help From Here. No Patio Party Is Complete Without This Jug. By submitting your email, you agree to our, Prominent Restaurant Critic AA Gill HasDied, Kim-Joys New Recipe-Filled Graphic Novel Is About More Than Cute Bakes, In "Turtle Bread," the "Great British Bake Off" alums first foray into fiction, a shy woman joins a baking club, An entomologists advice for bug-free backyard barbecues, Just like at your favorite restaurant, you can offer cute, custom matches as keepsakes, Where to find creative chefs redefining French cuisine, classic brasseries and bistros enjoying a renaissance, stunning Michelin-starred meals, and more of Pariss best food, thrown out of a restaurant by Gordon Ramsay, AA Gill Dies Weeks After Revealing He Had Cancer in Restaurant Review, AA Gill: An Announcement By the Editor of The Sunday Times, Prolific Food Critic AA Gill Announces Cancer Diagnosis in Latest Review, How I Got My Job: Creating a New Vision for Vegan Cooking at a Top NYC Restaurant, Heres Another Reason to Look Forward to The Bear Season 2. Gill started drinking at the age of 15 and by his early 20s was consuming a bottle of Scotch a day. Belfasttelegraph Skip to navigation [n] We get the feedback earlier.". Back in 2012, he expressed his disdain for him when Ramsay applied to trademark the name The Spotted Pig in the UK. Im not a contrarian, Gill told an interviewer. "I thought the best way to handle it was to saying nothing about him at all," wrote Samuelsson. Well, he fights because he loves it. To say the food is repellently awful would be to credit it with a vim and vigor and attitude it simply cant rise to. Gill was also a contributing editor to Vanity Fair and GQ. Prolific Food Critic AA Gill Announces Cancer Diagnosis in Latest Review [E] Prominent Restaurant Critic AA Gill Has Died [E], The freshest news from the food world every day. He married current Home Secretary Amber Rudd, who was then a venture capitalist, in 1991. Every shitty article like that we send to Vegas to make paper for my new fish and chip shop. John Witherow, editor of the Sunday Times from 1994 to 2012, said Gill had been extraordinary and unique. Ramsay's wife had suffered a miscarriage earlier that year, and he said he would never speak to Oliver again unless the chef apologized. He was, perhaps unsurprisingly, an opinionated boy and had a testy relationship with his father. Marco Pierre White was Gordon Ramsay's mentor for a time, but things ended badly. "Adrian was a giant among journalists. Gill's feud with the Isle of Man began in 2006 with a review of Ciappelli's restaurant in Douglas. "Good question. This was also accompanied by a story in the next morning's papers and Gill swears it was . People always think it's about the money but it's not; it's the passion. "Have you ever met the UFC fighter Conor McGregor? Although perhaps unfair, Gill is, as ever, nothing if not wonderfully poetic in his assassination. The late chef, Anthony Bourdain, was often pretty critical of Ramsay, but his beef with the chef was not entirely personal. But now, I counter, the critics he's being judged by are unqualified. Adrian was stoical about his illness, but the suddenness of his death has shocked us all. [9] In 1993, he moved to The Sunday Times where, according to Lynn Barber, "he quickly established himself as their shiniest star". Well, aside from the tourists taking pictures of their entres, there is an awning advertising the fact that said famous British chef is indeed in situ. In the 1990s, Ramsay's restaurant, Aubergine, received good reviews from critics, but failed to win over the late AA Gill. ', One of the things other chefs really hate about Ramsay is the way he yells at other people on TV. He said that he first noticed Ramsay's less-than-stellar personality when cooking with him at a promotional event. Sunday Times restaurant critic AA Gill has died, aged 62, three weeks after revealing he had cancer. In 1995, he left Rudd for South African model Nicola Formby, a writer and editor at Tatler and, latterly, a food consultant. He followed an Alcoholics Anonymous "12-step plan" to recovery and, in tribute to the organisation, began using the name "A. Over the weekend, the Sunday Times confirmed that Gill had died. ", Ramsay allegedly called Samuelsson, saying "How the f*** can you come to my f***ing city and think you are going to be able to cook without even f***ing referring to me?" OnThis Morning, she said, 'He's a really fussy eater Well, with my food. . And I like ruffling feathers. Gill described Ramsay as a "failed sportsman who acts like an 11-year-old". Hate is fine. In a 2012 review of Mary Beards TV documentary Meet the Romans, Gill wrote that the Cambridge professor should be kept away from cameras altogether, prompting Beard to retort that he was afraid of smart women. He's an international sensation whose cooking chops (he has multiple Michelin stars under his belt) have made him a household name. He was 62. [12] He also wrote for Esquire, where he served as an agony uncle, "Uncle Dysfunctional".[13]. [16][17] In 2014, he also won the "Hatchet Job of the Year Award" for his scathing review of Morrisey's Autobiography. For one reason or another, there are a lot of people who hold a grudge against the millionaire chef. [33] Born in Edinburgh in 1954, Gill had overcome dyslexia to forge a career as a writer. In response, Ramsay took Lavy to court for the $2.25 million he says he lost in the deal. He described actor Maureen Lipman as lemon juice in the eye, she is chewing silver paper, she is a three-flush floater, sand in your socks and one blocked nostril. Ramsay, however, claimed that he had no harmful intentions, calling the trademark an "innocent mistake." He said he kicked Gill out because he doesn't "respect him as a food critic." If Marcus Samuelsson's memoir, Yes, Chef, is to be believed, he has a better reason than some to hate Gordon Ramsay. They are friends as such and their paths cross quite a lot in the industry.". There's no doubt that Gordon Ramsay is one of the biggest names in the restaurant business. If contempt and hatred were virtues, Gill was the most virtuous of men. We use cookies and other tracking technologies to improve your browsing experience on our site, show personalized content and targeted ads, analyze site traffic, and understand where our audiences come from. I have a truckers gut-buster, gimpy, malevolent, meaty, malignancy. Hate is good, the self-professed Christian wrote once. The breaking point came in 2017, after Oliver talked about having one more child than the Ramsays. . Wearing wide smiles and exuding bonhomie, the most famous enemies in the world of gastronomy appeared to have buried a hatchet that was unsheathed long ago. In 2010, he was censured by the former press watchdog having written a review of Clare Balding's 2010 Britain by Bike TV programme, in which he described her as a "dyke on a bike". ", Antony Worrall Thompson: "Ready steady tw*t.", Vegetarians, such as Sir Paul McCartney: "A real pain in the a***. "When Giles and Adrian did a number on me they f***ed me sideways," Ramsay admits. Gill, who had been having chemotherapy, said that he did not "feel cheated" and had been "very lucky" in his life. AA Gill is a very witty writer and I don't want to be personally criticised by him for the next 10 years. Something went wrong. He was also once thrown out of one of Gordon Ramsay's restaurants, along with his dining partner, actress Joan Collins. Not that Ramsay cares what I or, indeed, any reviewer writes. Hutcheson and Ramsay worked together for a time, but after Ramsay fired him as his business partner, Hutcheson and his sons, Adam and Chris, hacked into the company computer to steal data. Even when hes wrong, hes superbly full of himself., To be fair, he did have some good lines. They die hard, baboons. John Witherow, editor of the Sunday Times from 1994 to 2012, said Gill had been extraordinary and unique. His daughter, Tilly, has started to follow in her dad's footsteps, but has found that he's a harsh critic, even with his kids. Critics walk into restaurants now and they shiver because they're already full. While Ramsay's kids haven't publicly said anything too bad about their famous dad, it's probably only a matter of time. Pepin later wrote on Facebook that he did not mean to insult Ramsay, who he called "a very good, professionally trained chef." In the Nineties they had power - and bile - but they can't close us down anymore. Read about our approach to external linking. I can't be seen to be involved with any of them because it then becomes an unbalanced article. A couple years later, when he landed a job at London's Lanesborough, Samuelsson was asked which British chefs he admired, a list that Ramsay didn't make. This wasnt Gills most cutting commentary, interestingly. From an early age, Gill suffered from a stammer and dyslexia. The feeble argument of culling and control is much the same as for foxes: a veil for naughty fun.. "I won't have him in there. The columnist told the newspaper last month that he had been diagnosed with the "full English" of cancers. He went to the independent St Christopher School in Letchworth Garden City, Hertfordshire, and studied at the Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design and the Slade School of Fine Art, in London. Pentalina: Investigation demanded into safety certificate of grounded ferry amid 'pressure' claims, Italy's 'land without animals' reveals something sinister behind its famously passionate relationship with food Philip Lymbery. You Know the One. [29] Humberside Police and Crime Commissioner Matthew Grove described Gill as "A tweed-suited, Mayfair-based writer, whose only experience of the North of England was his visit to Cleethorpes and his regular trips salmon fishing in Scotland". When he was 30, he was told his alcoholism would kill him. These Are Europes Most LGBTQ+-Friendly Countries. An outstanding writer & critic. "You will be so missed, a truly remarkable woman who . However, in the best manner of feuds, it is a thing of the past. His wit was incomparable, his writing was dazzling and fearless, his intelligence was matched by compassion. Gill, adopting Wildean wit, replied: "Don't you have one of your own?" Take your time. He was also our friend. What does it really feel like to shoot someone, or someones close relative?, The killing, and the way he wrote about it, prompted outrage from animal rights groups. AA Gill was headhunted by The Sunday Times in 1993, serving as its television critic and restaurant reviewer until his death, winning many awards along the way RICHARD SAKER/REX SHUTTERSTOCK. ", turned the trademark back over to Bloomfield. I need the pressure. Known for his sharp wit, and often controversial style, Gill was widely read and won numerous awards for his writing. He trashed me for 20 years but always with magnificently eloquent savagery & an irritating kernel of truth. In an interview with ABC News, Ripert went even further, saying that shows where chefs yell at their team shouldn't even be on TV. Several food critics in this country are influenced by certain chefs. Over the weekend, the Sunday Times confirmed that Gill had died. For three years I lived in France, where they don't have an abundance of food critics with celebrity status. He reportedly detested the place, not least because the food was vegetarian. The bowls and dishes dribble and limp to the table with a yawning lassitude. I didnt pursue it. In 2006, during a review of a restaurant in Douglas, he described the Isle of Man as a place that had fallen off the back of the history lorry to lie amnesiac in the road to progress everyone you actually see is Benny from Crossroads or Benny in drag The weathers foul, the foods medieval, its covered in suicidal motorists and folk who believe in fairies. A local politician called the review an unacceptable and scurrilous attack. Just three weeks before he died, he began his Sunday Times newspaper column by bluntly informing his readers that he was suffering an embarrassment of cancer, adding: There is barely a morsel of offal that is not included. [15] He wrote books studying England The Angry Island (2005), and the United States The Golden Door (2012). Gill wrote: "Everything about this restaurant, this food, this service is hopelessly pass, utterly has-been. "Its a while ago since he asked AA Gill to leave his restaurant.

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